–Well, let me have your address. Thanks. Now how do I find this place?
–Oh, just ask anyone.
Ask? Just light out and go to a foreign country, where I’ve never been more than a mile inside the border, and ask where to find someone? But that was all the information I could get. If I was going to act, I had the name of her town, and the names of the streets on whose corner she lived, to go on. It was this or nothing.
I crossed the border south of
And with these I was off into the interior.
Straight through Palomas, straight south to El Entronque,
where I picked up
Casas Grandes appeared pretty small, maybe one and a half a kilometers from end to end, and I found no street sign that even resembled the street names Guille had given me. But she had told me she lived in Barrio San Antonio, and I found a chap who pointed me into the barrio.
The old part of Casas Grandes extends no more than a few
blocks in each direction. The
Nor are there any street signs.
Nor do the people know the names of the streets. When I asked someone where was Calle Coahuila, he very cheerfully directed me to go three streets west. But upon arrival, asking someone if I had found Coahuila, I was told, –No, it’s three streets east of here.– Really!
–Well, what about Callejón 5 de febrero? –Oh, yes, it’s the fourth street to the north. –Well, thanks.
I needed a new approach. I drove about a block, then flagged down a driver and asked, –Where do I find Guille? –Hmm. Let’s see. –Widow of Beny. –Oh, sure. I’ll show you. Just follow me.
I did, and we stopped in front of a modest little house
standing at one end of a deep, dusty lot, looking mighty quiet but with the
door open. As I approached, out came
Guille’s daughter Mague. (I had met her
And after Mague came Guille.
And she saw me, and started screaming, and ran and jumped into my arms, and I swung her round and round, and she screamed some more.
And we thanked the man who had led me in, and brought my car into the yard and parked it.
* * *
Guille’s house was square; two rooms by two, except that one quadrant had been left open as a porch. So that left a kitchen and two bedrooms wrapped around the porch. The porch was oriented to receive the winter sun and served as a comfortable outdoor living room during the sunny part of all but the coldest days. The rooms were small, little if any more than ten feet by ten. The kitchen had a wood range for winter use and a gas range for summer. It gave onto a bedroom with twin beds and no heat, this room being for Guille’s two youngest but adult children, Dick and Mague, who lived with her. Their room in turn gave onto Guille’s room, equipped with double bed (mexicans call it a matrimonial bed), small wood stove, and a bath tacked onto the back wall. The bath comprised a large shower stall with a sink on the wall opposite the shower head and a high shelf to keep a few articles out of the shower’s reach. There was no commode. For that, one followed a path down to a little wooden building at the far end of the lot.
The path led first through a carport housing a couple of defunct S10s; two more S10s driven by Mague and Dick were alongside and exposed to the weather. Next one passed a storage shed, then the wood lot and chopping area, then the chicken lot, where lived an ostrich as well as a few dozen chickens, then an idle space once home to a cow, and finally arrived at the privy.
Elsewhere on the property I found a clothesline, a shelter where Guille raised doves, an elaborate cage for Mague’s tropical birds, a laundry shed, and a tool room.
This humble family, over my protest, gave me the master bedroom. Guille, tiny thing that she is, folded herself into a corner of Mague’s bed.
* * *
I passed five days here with Guille. Guille’s routine was to rise with the roosters, start a fire in the kitchen, make coffee, and sip it down while reading her prayers from a devotional book of some sort. Then a few chores, and breakfast.
I fell easily into this routine. Each morning I rose with the roosters, made the kitchen fire, then poked my head into the children’s room, where Guille slept, and softly called, “er er ERR er!” Guille then got up and made coffee, and we had coffee and read our prayers together, I having read the liturgy of the hours for years and having a condensed travel version with me.
© 2004 Joseph Mansfield